Black Watch to Europe

Built in 1972 but extensively updated by her owners, Black Watch is one of the proudest and most distinctive cruise ships afloat. But while she looks like something from another age- that being a miniature version of the QE2- this same ship has recently benefited from some nice new upgrades.

Chief among these are some new terraces on Seven Deck cabins. Though beautiful, they line the promenade deck, and are hardly private spaces. Deck walkers stroll past at all hours of the day.

Inside, Black Watch has the Garden Café, a popular venue for breakfast and lunch that is intimate, and entered via a lovely space full of plants, wicker chairs and tables that looks as if it was lifted intact from the Titanic. A string trio usually plays here just before dinner. It's a classy appetiser to what remains some of the best food afloat.

Truly nice is the new, partially covered outdoor grill. Only open on certain nights, it's extra charge (£20 per person) and serves a limited menu, but  feasting on fillet steak while sailing through a Norwegian fjord at sunset- that takes some beating. Book in advance, as it fills up pretty quickly.

Entertainment has never been Fred. Olsen's strong point,  but Black Watch provided great live music in the excellent lido bar. Black Watch has broad decks and wide, interior corridors filled with sunlight through huge windows. The effect is to make the ship feel bigger than she actually is.

And the crew create a fantastic ambiance for the cruise. Many of them are Filipino, and have been with the line for decades. They offer superb, intuitive service that is never intrusive. Other lines could learn from Fred. Olsen on that score.

All in, Black Watch offers intimacy, style and a certain amount of exclusivity in a wonderfully welcoming environment. Prices on board are really reasonable and, with her new enhancements, this ship offers an expanded range of accommodation that should widen her appeal. However, note that the room service menu is way too small, and much too far out of date